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Faces of No.16: Jessica Rubinson

Undercutter & Coatmaker

Norton & Sons has been dressing discerning clients since 1821 and behind every immaculate garment is a team of craftspeople whose skill rarely makes it into the spotlight. We spent a day in the workshop with Jessica, our Undercutter, to find out what really goes into a day at No.16. From the cutting and the client relationships, to what she gets up to once the shears are down.

What does your morning look like before you arrive on the Row?

Jessica has become a firm morning person, starting most days with a run or a gym class just around the corner from Savile Row. "I love grabbing a coffee at Ergon on Maddox Street," she says, "though since Dorothy's opened a few doors down, I've been pulled towards their pastries too."

You trained in coat making before becoming an undercutter — How did that set you up for cutting?

After initially training at The Savile Row Academy, Jessica joined Edward Sexton as a coat making apprentice, spending five years focused on their iconic 1970s-style tailoring. She went on to freelance for many houses across the Row, picking up the different house styles and approaches along the way. "Having an understanding of coat making gave me a strong base for how a garment goes together," she explains. "It's a great first stage to getting to grips with pattern cutting."

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What drew you to undercutting specifically, rather than staying in coat making?

For Jessica, it ultimately came down to the client relationship. "I've always loved working directly with clients. Seeing their vision and knowing I can make that happen through the pattern and collaborating with the team on production," she says. "It’s an incredible feeling in trying a garment on a client and seeing the joy on their face." 

How long does it typically take to train as an undercutter, and what's the hardest part of learning the craft?

Training in the cutting aspect of bespoke tailoring typically takes seven years, though Jessica's years as a coat maker gave her a head start. "I think the hardest part within cutting is developing your own unique style of creating a pattern. It’s taking the time to really understand what the client wants and making them feel confident". 

How would you describe Norton & Sons' house style?

"Norton's has a much more contemporary style. We cut a higher armhole, a natural shoulder and a softer chest," Jessica says. "The modern gentleman prefers that contemporary look, while still getting the heritage and craftsmanship of a classic Savile Row bespoke garment."

What does the Bespoke process look like from start to finish?

It begins before the client even walks in, with an initial call to understand what they're looking for so Jessica can prepare the right cloth for consultation. From there, it’s a matter of securing cloth and lining, discussing style, taking measurements and hand-drafting their unique pattern. The cloth is chalked, bundled with trimmings and passed onto the makers. 

A series of fittings follow, where Jessica pins, marks and adjusts as the style is finalised, all before buttonholes, buttons and final finishing touches are completed by hand. "The whole process takes around 12 to 16 weeks including fittings," she says, "but from the tailors' and makers' side, it can be up to 100 hours of labour."

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What's been your favourite commission to date?

“We had two sisters who, for their birthdays, each designed an overcoat cut in Loro Piana pure cashmere. One had a detachable cape with a stand and fall collar, the other was a more relaxed double-breasted coat," she says. "We tweaked the design every step of the way to get the floor-length coats just right. Their happiness was priceless."

Favourite cloth to work with?

"Years ago I'd have said tweed," Jessica says, "but I've come to love a 12oz flannel. It's incredibly easy to manipulate and drapes beautifully. It's hard to compare."

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Is there a tool in your kit you couldn't work without?

Her shears, without question. "Everyone in the workshop knows you don't go near a tailor's shears; they are incredibly personal. Mine were gifted to me by a friend who taught me cutting early on and they are beautiful vintage Wiss!"

Do you get to build relationships with clients over multiple commissions?

Nearly a year and a half into her time at Norton & Sons, Jessica has built up close relationships with clients across London and the US. One particular client from Austria stands out, for whom she's cut everything from shooting jackets, safari jackets and the Norton & Sons estate jacket. "It's been really fun experimenting on new pieces with him to help build his wardrobe and really take the time to learn the lifestyle he leads so I know what we need to work with him on next."

What do you do after work to switch off?

In summer, if it’s not a chilled evening at home or workout class, it usually means a drink with the team at The Burlington pub. "Otherwise, I love discovering new restaurant spots with friends or having people over and cooking something relaxed."

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Any hobbies outside tailoring people might not expect?

Jessica has a French tutor once a week and takes every opportunity to put it to "good use."

A couple of times a year, she also gets out surfing, wherever she can find waves. "Whether it's Portugal, France or Central America, it's an incredible feeling."

Did you know that Jessica also hosts our US Trunk Shows?

To get started with Jessica on your next Bespoke commission, book an appointment via the link below.

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